The Textile Forum 2025 was looking at tablet weaving, under the title "The Way The Tablet Turns".
Papers and workshops in the Forum were:
Silvia Ungerechts, Germany:Tablet-Woven Bands from Egypt of the early Byzantine era (395–641)
This lecture explores tablet-woven bands from Egypt, focusing particularly on types unique to this region. After providing an overview of the history of tablet weaving in Egypt, the main section categorises various archaeological finds from the Byzantine period based on their weaving techniques, beginning with simple techniques. A key part of the presentation is devoted to the so-called three-part bands — a tablet-woven band with three distinct pattern sections, each executed using different techniques. To date, these exceptional bands are only known from the Egyptian context, providing remarkable insights into the technical creativity of Late Antique textile craftsmanship.
Marled Mader, Germany:Icelandic double weave - a nearly forgotten technique
This specific Icelandic technique is known primarily from previous centuries and, to my knowledge, developed in isolation there. By the middle of the last century, it had more or less died out in Iceland, too, until the renewed interest in tablet weaving in the mid/late 20th century turned to this technique as well.
The first German description of the technique can be found in Claudia Wollny's book "Tablets at Work," but there are other English-language publications.
Icelandic double tablet weaving differs significantly from other techniques, as it involves two sheds and a standardized process must be followed. Otherwise, no templates are needed; you can work freely once you understand the basic principle.
Marie Wallenberg, Sweden: Tablet woven bands from Viking Age Valsgärde, Sweden
Andrea Wagner-Neumann, Germany: From Three-Coloured Doubleface to Two-Hole Patterns
Bands in three-coloured doubleface (also known as the ‘Sulawesi’ technique) and two-hole patterns with skipped holes have been documented since the Iron Age and are still produced today to complement traditional folkloric clothing, among other things.
In both varieties, patterns are created on the basis of diagonal lines by individually twisting the tablets. Even if the number of threads per tablet is different, the underlying weaving technique is identical. Patterns can therefore be easily transferred from one technique to the other.
A short presentation will show examples of both varieties from different periods and the similarities in construction, pattern formation and development. For the practical part, participants should be advanced in tablet weaving.
Mari Voipio, Finland: Tablet weaving apps and other digital aids for exploring and publishing tablet-woven bands
In this workshop we take a look at four online apps that can aid you with creating simulations of bands as well as pattern files for sharing online and in print. We'll also take a look at the history of digital tablet weaving aids and other digital tools that can be used for designing and weaving.
Orsolya Zay, Hungary: Running animals around the hip – a unique late medieval belt from archeological excavation
In Hungary, archaeological research has dealt little with the card weaving technique. However, the recent museum department clearances and observations from fieldwork have shown that we have many more fragments or larger pieces than previously thought.
During the late Middle Ages, an interesting type of object appeared in the Carpathian Basin, which was used to close textile and leather belts. Metal or bone objects, called “sticks” by researchers, often occur in 14th-15th century graves and metal detector research, but no comprehensive study has been published on them so far, and no parallels have been found in other areas of Europe, so the research was at a loss for words. By a lucky coincidence, when excavating a cemetery near Kecskemét, archaeologists came across the remains of a stick belt, which belonged to a metal thread, card-woven belt for a young lady. During the presentation, I would like to present this belt and its archaeological-historical background, and the outcomes of the related experimental archaeological project.
Mirjam Kaufmann, Italy: A rare example of a brocaded tablet woven band with beads
Within the textile fragments from the tomb of Siegfried von Westerburg (+1297), Archbishop of Cologne, 16 different brocaded tablet woven bands and one double-faced tablet woven band were preserved. One outstanding example is a band with woven in beads, used as a trimming for the gloves. The results from the analysis of the weave structure of this band will be shown in a short presentation, followed by trying out this complex brocaded tablet woven band with four pattern wefts.S
Sylvie Odstrčilová, Czech Republic: Two weavers at one loom?
Details in one of the brocaded tablet-woven bands found in Prague suggest that such intricate bands, woven on more than 100 tablets, could have been woven by two weavers sitting side by side (or rather on opposite sides of the loom).
There will be a short presentation on this 12th century band and my theory about the co-operative weaving, followed by a practical test in collaboration with other weavers.